One week in Israel: A wonderful wedding, three earthquakes, and the run-up to the Annapolis peace conference. Every day, every encounter was an adventure and a lesson.
Let's start with the end: On the way back to the Ben Gurion airport, our taxi driver talked politics; he seemed level-headed and moderate, and what he said made sense. The only country he'd ever been to was Lebanon -- as a soldier during the war. Then he took us on an unexpected detour, away from the more common freeway #1 and straight through Palestinian territory, along the concrete security fence and numerous watch towers. "I take you here so you can see the other Israel," he told us, and he pointed at houses in the not too far distance: "This is Ramallah, where you can meet Abbas." He explained that you can identify Jewish settlements by their red roofs. We passed a house, a few hundred meters from the road, up on a hill, with a green flag on top. "Do you know this green flag?" he asked us, "Hamas." "This guy is basically saying: I’m a terrorist. We should send a fighter plane and bomb the hell out of him. If I were to settle in Ramallah and would put an Israeli flag on my roof, you know what would happen? They would lynch me." I asked him whether he felt safe in Jerusalem, where he lived, and he said: "I feel safe everywhere. You can put me in the middle of Ramallah and I would feel safe." Even now, as a taxi driver, he claimed, he was one of the few who would give ultra-orthodox Jews a ride to holy yet dangerous sites in Hebron: "The Arabs know me. They know that I would pull my gun right away, without asking any questions. I would kill them without thinking. I learned that in the military. They know that so they leave me alone." "I am a psychopath," he laughed, "I'm a little bit meshugge." And he revealed that he had been a parachuter with the Sayeret Matkal counter-terrorism unit of IDF (Israeli Defense Forces) that make incursions on Palestinian territory. When we arrived at Ben Gurion, he proudly showed us the parachute in his trunk, which he was now using for hobby glides ("An expensive one. It can carry two people. It costs about $8,000.")
On the day before, our Masada tour guide Ron, who counts Madonna (a.k.a. Esther) and some other Hollywood celebrities as his clients, vividly described the violence of King Herod and the legendary collective suicide of the Zealots. An elderly Israeli man now living in California remarked: "It's the story of our lives. A few against many. Hopefully, our story will not end like Masada."
Walled Gardens
In Old Jerusalem, Palestinians and Israelis seem to have arranged some hidden pact to co-exist. There is a distinct awareness of tension, yet the walls that separate the Muslim and the Jewish quarters in the old city are invisible and not as impenetrable as elsewhere. The people who live here resemble a heterogeneous mix, and while revealing one's nationality may still be a risky thing, as one Israeli cautioned, one does not need to be afraid of being lynched on the streets. Nonetheless, surveillance cameras are subtle but ubiquitous, as are the machine guns of IDF soldiers. Lulled by the good life in street cafes, the pleasant climate, and the thriving economy, you can easily forget that Israel is a country at war.
On Shabbat, we followed a Palestinian cab driver's invitation to have coffee with his family in his house on the Mount of Olives. Muhammad drove us along the security fence that divides the West Bank from Jerusalem. The local security checkpoint is the biggest one the Israelis built, he explained. It was practically in his backyard. We met a dozen kids, the matriarch of the family, and several siblings in his apartment. We ate their rice and bread and humus, and drank their coffee. "You have a beautiful family," said my friend, an American Jew. "It's all in your eyes," replied the grandmother. From the patio, we enjoyed the view over what Israelis calls Judea and Samaria (and the rest of the world refers to as the West Bank), the land that lies behind the wall. The wall is everywhere. It is in the heads, it is in the hearts, and it cuts the holy land in two.
Muhammad and his family showed us is that it is worth not to be afraid of going to the other side. It turned out his father is a renowned "peacemaker" who regularly invites tourists and Israelis to his home, in an effort to overcome stereotypes and foster mutual understanding. Even Richard Gere once sat on his couch. "No one saw what happened the day after Israeli forces bulldozed 100 houses in Jenin, when a lot of Jews and Christians came to a special hospital on the Mount of Olives to give blood for the Palestinians in Jenin and in the camps,” he writes on his web site. "Does anybody hear about this goodness in Europe and USA? People who have never been here think there is a wall between the Arabs and the Jews and that we are both dangerous people. We are both really good people." The Holy Land is a parable about the need "to care for each other simple because that 'other' exists," in the words of Rabbi Menachem Mendle. "Never ever again will I judge anyone based on ethnic or religious traits," whispers one of the Holocaust witnesses at Yad Vashem.
The Discovery of Heaven
I've never been so close to heaven before in my life. That's what I felt when I stood on the compound of the Temple Mount. I thought of Harry Mulisch's book "The Discovery of Heaven," and I was astonished to be let so close to the third-holiest site for Muslims (after Mecca and Medina), and the holiest of the holiest for Jews. I was riveted by the beauty of the Dome of the Rock. The Muslim tour guide we had hired explained the world to us for 60 NIS, in a tour de force through the powers of the universe, represented by the many mathematical formulas that hold it together and appear as a common theme of the Dome's architecture. He recounted the story of Mohammed's ascension to heaven, and he emphasized the universality of Islam, delivering his points with dry wit and a nonchalant tolerance for the naive questions of his listeners. All in all, a perfect piece of public diplomacy. "Allah doesn’t want us to carry more than we can carry," he said. And as he delved into details of the Koran, I thought of the wisdom for the crowds that had been accumulated over thousands of years and captured in the "book of books," and how mighty it was compared to the "wisdom of the crowds" that we cherish today.
Jerusalem is the most closed and the most open place in the world. The Temple Mount, the Via Dolorosa that meanders through the Muslim quarter, and all the other meaning-laden sites: The three big monotheistic religions cross so many paths and narratives in this city, that you have to conclude God is not only great but has also a profound sense of irony. You can imagine him somewhere high up in the cloudless sky ("If God lived on earth, people would break his windows," a Jewish proverb goes), quietly amused: "Go figure it out!" "Man means nothing / he means less to me than the lowliest cactus flower or the humblest yucca tree / he chases round this desert cause he thinks that's where I'll be / that's why I love mankind / I recoil in horror from the foulness of thee / from the squalor and the filth and the misery / How we laugh up here in heaven at the prayers you offer me / That's why I love mankind." Randy Newman's 'God Song' is not as cynical as it may sound. Rather, it suggests that you have to believe in order to believe -- there is no rational argument for His existence.
And believing is living in Israel. Maybe one day, its people, from all religions, will be able to demonstrate that you can lead a modern life in a modern society and at the same time embrace and practice your faith. That religion as a way of life may be the only way to have a complete life. And that Christopher Hitchens, Sam Harris, Richard Dawkins, and all the other atheists simply don't know what they don't know. If "religion is not faith, but the story of faith," as Reza Aslan puts it, then maybe atheists are nothing but illiterate.
Israel is rich with the stories of faith. It is the mother of all conflicts and the mother of all hope. It is a holy, a beautiful, an endangered land, and it is this very fragility that makes it worth fighting for.